Zenith places a polished plaque on the side of the case that shows the limited edition number. This is a nice touch, and for years I have loved Ulysse Nardin's use of this feature on their watches. The crown is large and easy to use. If you can't operate this crown with ease, then watches with crowns just simply aren't for you. Zenith matches the Type 20 with a hand-stitched calfskin strap with titanium buckle. Rather than being a proud reminder of Zenith's aviator watch history, I think that the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 is a good reminder of their watch movement making history. There will be just 250 pieces in the limited edition collection. Price is ,300.
The magic happens when you press the illumination button. It activates an LED located toward the bottom of the dial that causes the dial to mysteriously light up in different colors. It reminds me a bit of a black light effect. The LED is an ultra violet light and causes the pigments to light up differently. It is a fun effect and also useful. Price for the Casio BGA131-1B and BGA131-7B watches is .
The many links allow the bracelet to wrap around one's wrist with ease. Omega's deployment clasp is easy to use and provides a secure fit. The buckle is brushed steel with the Omega logo and name as well as the Seamaster stamp. One negative here is that the large buckle does have a tendency to scratch... A diver's extension is also present, allowing one to extend the bracelet to about 5 more millimeters so as to fit over a wet suit.
Playing with the movement is fun. It more or less operates just as you would expect. The digital display is novel and adjusts rapidly as time passes. You need to decide whether this is a super high-end nerd watch, or a sophisticated techie watch. Hard to say...
While each version of the WW1 Heure Sautante watch has the same movement, you can tell that the dials are totally different. It is hard to choose a favorite because they are both so different. The 18k pink gold model has blued steel hands and I think baton hour indicators. The jumping hour window is framed in gold with a white face. Legibility is perfect given the attractive high-contrast dial. The power reserve indicator helps even out the dial. The only thing missing is a seconds indicator. On the platinum model you have something totally different. The power reserve indicator is mounted the other way around using a disc rather than a hand. Most of the face is gray, with a white inner dial separated by a textured border. This face actually looks more characteristically "Bell & Ross" if you are familiar with some of their older model designs. Attached to the watches are alligator straps.
The de GRISOGONO Meccanico dG is not a small watch. The case about 48mm wide by about 56mm tall, and 15mm thick. It is imposingly cool on the wrist. This black version has a titanium case (as most models do), but there are gold versions available as well. The curve of the case is quite elegant and attractive. It has a nice organic feel to it in contrast to the technical look of the dial. On the rear of the watch you can view the back of the movement and see the floral engravings (in typical de GRISOGONO style).
In this ingloriating episode we first remind all New York locals to attend our May 2nd meet-up at the Heartland Brewery at 6pm or so in New York City. Yes, just show up. We also discuss how Dent watches lovingly dented our hearts. The return of Dubey & Schaldenbrand, and more.
Another area where titanium is excellent at is corrosion resistance (e.g. its resistance to rusting). It is so good that it is almost impossible to rust titanium. It is impervious to all acids but nitric acid. And nitric acid is something you do not come nearby in your daily life. It’s corrosion resistance is similar to that of platinum, and in terms of engineering metals only zirconium can beat titanium for corrosion resistance. This corrosion resistance is the key to the hypoallergenic properties of titanium. It is so inert due to the oxide layer that forms on its surface, that it does not react with human body - thus being the material of choice for many medical applications.
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 99 here.
Buckle: Adjustable three-fold clasp with secure lock and push button release
Live (when recorded that is) from Philadelphia John and I talk business and politics (watch politics). We cover the new MB&F MoonMachine, Buben & Zorweg, as well our new friend Tim.
This is mostly a matter of opinion as I don't have any local affinity to Georgia or their Armed Forces, as I am many thousands of miles away in western Canada. I suppose my regional equivalent is something like a Marathon SAR which often sports a maple leaf design (dubbed the MSAR) and has been said to be the watch worn by the Canadian Coast Guard. For me, that detail makes the Marathon MSAR more appealing and I can only assume the GAF would have the same effect for anyone with an affinity towards the Georgian Armed Forces, regional or otherwise.
Inside this Grande Reverso Duoface is a Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 986 manually wound movement. All features are controlled via the crown and it has a power reserve of about 48 hours. It is a slick movement and all I could have asked for in addition to the existing features would be a power reserve indicator. For me, I really like it when manually wound movements have those. Price for this excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duoface watch is ,300 in 18k rose gold and about ,200 in steel. It is a classic, and an easy decision to own.
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 98 here.
What is different about JLC in comparison to even many of its sister companies is just how much of a manufacture they are. We are talking a place where movement parts, movement assembly, cases, hands, and dials are made. JLC really makes a lot more "watch" than most people are used to.
The chronograph subdials have textured insides while colors are used for some of the chronograph hands and other elements. It isn't that Omega has never played with the Speedmaster dial before, but these are among the most interesting - and certainly fun. You could call this a more youthful or casual Speedmaster if you like. It is hard for me to not like the mostly red-dialed version. Though all are nice.