It's a good daily wearer, well sized for me and robust enough that you don't ever worry about it.
Perrelet's Turbine design has always been about motion and activity that promotes a truly distinctive wrist presence. The dial has two levels, a background and a spinning "turbine" disk that reacts to the subtle motion of lifting your wrist to check the time. That motion kicks the turbine into action and it spins, as though propelled by a jet engine. I had seen this on the original Turbine pieces and the way that Perrelet has preserved this cool design while incorporating a chronograph is really fantastic.
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Part of the point of the HMS Victory watch is to benefit the restoration and upkeep of maintaining the actual HMS Victory ship. The 18th century warship is the last of its kind and as a historic monument always needs cash to survive. This project will deliver financial assistance to that cause.
Then there is the Chrono Hawk - a similar model that features a bi-compax chronograph dial and slightly different look within the same theme. I am happy that Girard-Perregaux made two distinct models as opposed to simply a Sea Hawk Chronograph. I am a bit confused about the movements used in these watches. Girard-Perregaux claims that they are both the in-house made GP3300 automatic movements. That isn't possible given that they don't do the same things. What I think they mean is that both the Sea Hawk and the Chrono Hawk movements are built on the GP3300 as a base caliber.
The difference between the movements is a bit significant. The standard SeaStar 1000 Chronograph uses the budget-priced Swiss ETA C0.211 automatic chronograph movement, while the limited edition model uses the tried and true Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic movement with a gold-toned automatic rotor, both seen through the casebacks (I like the printed SeaStar logo and seahorse printed on the Valjoux version's caseback window). Neither of the movements are what I would call "fancy," but for sure, the 7750 is a better movement. ETA tried to make the distinction between the two movements a bit more pronounced in terms of function by having the C0.211 be a six hour chronograph versus the 12 hours of timing for the 7750. This is actually a very arbitrary distinction technically speaking, but I get why they did it. Also, the 7750 is a day/date movement while the C0.211 only shows the date. This is reflected on the dial of the watches accordingly.
In honor of the 30th anniversary of the partnership with Giugiaro, Seiko has released six limited edition "re-issues" of the original 7A28 6000 watch that Bishop wore in the Aliens movie. In the early 1980s Seiko released a few of these models, but for 2013 Seiko is releasing a few new colors that have never before been produced. The most famous model of course will be the black and red version (today the SCED003). The new watches will be limited to either 500 or 200 pieces depending on the model.
Tech Specs from Ulysse Nardin:
Reference 675-00: Titanium, rose gold with ceramic bezel
Reference 675 -01 Titanium, rose gold
Movement: Caliber UN-67
Front side/back side etched anchor with integrated safety pin in silicium
Front side/back side etched roller with integrated impulse finger in silicium, silicium cut hairspring
Patented inertial oscillator
Power-Reserve approx. 42 h
Functions: Alarm with cathedral gong. Countdown indicator. Dual Time system with instant timezone adjustor. Big date in a double window. Quick date correction in both directions.
Case: titanium with rose gold elements, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushers in rose gold titanium with rose gold elements, bezel, crown and pushers in rose gold
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Band: Black leather or black rubber strap, with folding buckle
We just can't stop talking about Cholex. In this episode we talk about what a "robot turd" watch really is, and how ambitious modern-designs mix with luxury well (and not so well).
Inspired by ornate clocks, the Time Pyramid has a symmetrical pyramid shape movement with the escapement positioned at the zenith of the “pyramid”, and is simply breathtaking to behold. The watch also has a unique system of managing torque to the escapement. When one of the mainspring barrels is running out of power and torque goes down, the other kicks in to help maintain sufficient torque. Finally, at nearly 45mm wide, it is a watch that will command lots of presence and is certain to be a conversation starter at parties.
Pretty soon, high-end Geneva-based watch maker Urwerk, will release a watch that includes their new EMC mechanical movement - a mechanism that will no doubt appear ironic and perhaps insane to those not acquainted with the passions that drive the mechanical watch industry. In short, the EMC blurs the lines between mechanical and quartz timing regulation in an amusingly obsessive way that points to the sheer limits of how much your average watch aficionado is willing to endure. Urwerk calls the EMC the first "mechanical smart watch movement," so let's find out what it is all about.
Bell & Ross watches were originally dual-branded Sinn timepieces that the founders of Bell & Ross felt could do very well in the larger fashion and luxury market as opposed to simply the dedicated professional watch market. German Sinn watches to this day is mostly setup as a direct-to-consumer tool watch brand producing some of the finest durable and professional use mechanical watches around. At that time in the 1990s, you basically needed to be in that world to even know about Sinn, as finding them in retailers was rare - especially outside of Europe. So Bell & Ross made a business model out of selling Sinn in places it had never before been.
Watch recognition has come a long way for sure. Those pesky luxury watch makers usually print their brand names in complicated English, even if the brands themselves aren't based in English speaking countries. No fair! Watch Radar is there to look at your Rolex and tell you that for sure, the name on the dial is Rolex. It can even tell you the model of many watches - now this is progress.
On the wrist, it's... bold. In a very unusual, "I care about design and quality" sort of way.
The self-winding rotor is decorated with the TAG Heuer name and logo and cut open to better show the movement which is itself decorated with rubies, blue steel screws, and brass gears. The whole thing is quite impressive and accentuates the feel of a solid instrument.
Propellers on each of the mainspring barrels serve as winding crowns for the music box, also powered by a spring, like a watch. Air regulators to each side spin as the box is activated. The movement's main focal point are the music rollers with pins sitting over the combs which produce the sound. Each MusicMachine will come with pins for six melodies specifically select by Busser himself and are less than ironically selected segments from notable scores in Star Wars and Star Trek, as well as classic rock from John Lennon and Pink Floyd. Just what I always wanted, a totally music box version of Dark Side of the Moon.
For those keen to see the quality of the finishing on the movement through skeletonized watches, you will be disappointed as this is not in the DNA of the Roger Smith brand due to the fragility of such a movement. The only concession to this kind of appreciation is the open dial version of the Series 2, that allows one to see the under dial works.