“When working on a new project from one or more innovative design ideas, we first try to consult both builders and those in charge of aesthetics to find the best way to achieve the desired look."
The Logical One watch itself will be 43mm wide by 14.2mm thick in an 18k red gold or platinum case. The movement will be produced from mostly titanium, steel and brass. While not a sport watch, it is water resistant to 50 meters. The time is still set via a crown that is located around 2 o'clock on the case. It all looks pretty swell and is probably Mr. Gauthier's finest (and of course most expensive) creation. He also doesn't want you to forget that there are three patents pending which apply to this watch. No doubt Romain... no doubt.
No doubt in light of the fact that ETA-made movements are harder than ever to get, Eterna has just announced that they have created a new movement, dubbed the Calibre 39, which is the result of a project that started in 2007. This is potentially a very important announcement for the industry as the Calibre 39 is designed to be both an alternative to many hard to get ETA movements, as well as a strong base caliber for lots of complications.
The new model (CA0515-02L) isn't a massive departure from the earlier Eco-Drive Scuba Fin models, but it does have some freshened looks, sporting a blue (or orange) dial that earlier iterations don't quite have. Don't forget there is a chronograph as well. That blue also carries over to the 26mm polyurethane strap. While this looks like it would be a fine enough material for hitting the water, it does give me some pause for concern. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it does look like the strap is integrated directly to the lugs - which means replacement options are limited, a strike in my book.
We’ve recently written about Shinola’s awesome new operation based out of Detroit. From all outward appearances, it looks like they are catching on like wildfire, as all of their timepieces have been sold out for months. This is an exciting time for a revival in modern American watchmaking, and Shinola has the production capacity to be a national leader. In addition to releasing additional wristwatch models over the coming months, they are also opening two boutiques this summer – in Detroit and New York City. We look forward to what this brand has in store for us down the line, and can’t wait to see them move towards in-house manufacturing on a large scale. 0-0 shinola.com
A handsome, timeless design, the XP has a black dial with a slight sheen to it, adding a greater sense of opacity and richness and the well proportioned Arabic numbers in white gold are nicely complimented by the dauphine hands. At 39.5mm wide, the XP is a modern sized dress watch with a versatile contemporary look suiting both formal and less formal occasions. Priced at ,350. chopard.com
Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945
It was a delightful surprise when I was contacted by Ariel, and was told that I won the monthly drawing contest for a Casio Pro Trek watch from aBlogtoWatch. While I like to consider myself a watch enthusiast, I had to admit that I had a severe lack of adventure/sport watches. While I had the standard tool watch, or the long lasting quartz watch, I didn’t have a watch where if I were to get lost in the woods, or I had to jump out of a plane, I knew that I would be able to focus on whatever is at hand, and not worry about my watch failing me, much less helping me survive.
2012 saw the release of a new version of the Nicolas Rieussec called the Open Hometime version. It is an update on the Chronograph Automatic that I previously reviewed. The refinements aren't many, but in my opinion this is probably one of the best looking Rieussec models today. While it has the same functions as the Chronograph Automatic, inside the Open Hometime is the new caliber R210 movement. What is different? Well the second timezone hand is now a disc, and there are some skeletonized parts on the dial. It is more a variation on the caliber R200 versus something totally new.
(Ariel visited last time, and I recommend reading his writeup here as I'll try to not duplicate what he said.)
What is much more interesting for those of us who enjoy retro-style watches such as this, is that models from Longines tend to be rather fairly priced. Longines is paying tribute to the older era of flight with these three new models in the Avigation Oversize Crown collection. [Ed. note: "Avigation" is clearly a contraction of "aviation" and "navigation." Though the 15 year old boy that still lives inside of me chuckles each time he says the name out loud.]
Details from the piece's quasi-dive watch heritage are there as the Marine Chronometer manufacture has 200 meters of water resistance and elements like a rubber coated crown for easy grip. Style-wise there is that typical Ulysse Nardin quirkiness which on the standard models is something you probably didn't expect compared to the most classic limited edition dial with its painted roman numerals. The standard pieces get larger applied Roman numeral hour indicators and dive-style hands - which is a unique combo that is likely to grow on you. Luminant is placed on the hands as well as the flange ring on all models except the limited edition with its enamel dial.
There will likely be a few versions of the H1. This is the steel model with a really lovely metallic blue dial. I wouldn't have thought that a bright green trimmed minutes hand would have worked, but it does. The 44mm wide case is typical Hydroscaph with its unique design and patented rotating bezel locking system (that unfolds like a little winding key). The crown design appears to be new and is rather interesting.
-Caliber RJ3000-A – Mechanical self-winding movement
-Frequency 28’800 v/h
-Jewelling 32 jewels
-Power reserve 42 hours
-Water resistance 3 atm (30 meters)
-Functions Hours and minutes at 3 o’clock, flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 6 o’clock
-Case 44,5 x 48,5 mm Steel, steel with elements from the Apollo 11 space shuttle
-Five shaped anti-reflective sapphire crystals
-Fitted with cylinder system for optimal wrist adjustment
-Case back Opening with sapphire crystals
-Dial Black dial containing Moon Dust. Integrated X-shaped traverses Circular satin-brushed counters
-Hands Oxidised black and satin-brushed hours and minutes hands with red lacquer Red lacquered power reserve indication
-Crown Steel screw-lock crown with black rubber
-Strap Black alligator strap
-Limited edition 25 pieces
-Retail price CHF 107,000.-* / EUR 99,000.-* / USD 115,000.-* / GBP 79,300.-*
Braun BN0095 Watch Review
The models seen are just the gold versions, they will be offered in steel as well. The press release from Franck Muller focused almost entirely on the movement and not the watches themselves. I truly hate when that happens, as it makes it most difficult to tell people exactly what they will be able to buy. What's with the cloak and dagger approach Franck Muller? Having said that I am pretty sure that the watches will be in the 35.90mm wide x 50.30mm tall versions of the Curvex case... or something very close. I have to say that Franck Muller (for me) is the brand that made tonneau-shaped cases seem wearable. Before Franck Muller, I felt this style of case only looked good on the wrists of men with extremely plump fingers who regularly smoke cigars.
The Seiko Astron.
The IWC Big Pilot Top Gun watch is water resistant to 60 meters and has a large AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial - that is slightly domed. Attached to the case is a black textile strap with a folding, tension locking deployant in titanium that looks really nice. I like that the excess strap is placed on the inside of your wrist. The strap is pretty nice, but I would also like to see the watch on the more traditional Big Pilot strap with the "aviator rivets." Overall the Top Gun version is a handsome and sizable addition to the Big Pilot family. There is nothing evolutionarily new about the watch as the movement is an existing part of the IWC collection, but it's a great new flavor of a Big Pilot for those who wanted a larger black ceramic version - and it is still handsome as hell.
Around the same time Yvan Arpa was asked to make some limited edition ArtyA watches for the members of the rock & roll group KISS. Arpa was genuinely humbled and traveled to LA to meet Gene Simmons. The result were a few timepieces that ranged from having KISS band member faces on them (artistically speaking), to guitar picks. Arpa realized that the rock & roll themed watch could be just as popular as the Son of a Gun collection.
Opus XIII is probably the most difficult watch I've had to photograph (ever), and that is with two additional people helping me here at Baselworld 2013. There is a centrally-mounted sapphire crystal that has been smoked and faceted like a diamond. It literally absorbs light, making this watch a demon to shoot. It is however fun to play with. Building on Ludovic's concept of appearing and disappearing indicators, the Opus XIII has hour markers that flip out from the central area when it is their turn, and then flip back to hide until it is their turn to display once again. The same thing goes for the minute markers, that individually flick out as the hour passes by. At the end of the hour they all hide back under a periphery ring also made of smoked sapphire crystal.
That's a small, 8mm, sapphire window over a 30-minute (jumping) register. So it's a secret chronograph, in that you have to take the watch off to measure longer than a minute. Zoom in a bit: